Introducing J-Ride, our sweet wheels for the trip throughout BC.  J-Ride is our 1998 Subaru Forester and somehow we managed to cram her full of all our stuff, and all Jordan and Tyra’s stuff, and our bodies.  On our way up Vancouver Island, we added a cargo box to her roof, so now we can […]

We took a Zodiac tour down Moresby Island right to the the southern tip.  We’ve now explored Haida Gwaii North to South, although truly getting to know this wonderful place, would take a lifetime, not a couple of weeks. Our guides were Haida Style Expeditions. This is Jaylene Shelford, an amazing Haida singer and guide. […]

Balance Rock is a huge boulder balancing on a tiny point on the coast of Graham Island.  It is a natural tourist attraction.  We stopped on our drive up island to check it out on a beautiful afternoon. I haven’t been able to find any Haida stories about the origins of this rock formation, unusual […]

After a beautiful drive from Agate Beach   We arrived at the delightfully welcoming Moon over Naikoon Bakery.  It’s a bus with delicious bread, pizza, cinnamon buns, coffee and so much more.  We started with a cinnamon bun, but didn’t want to leave so we got pizza and sat cozily around the table.  At this […]

A very misty and atmospheric walk up Tow Hill for a beautiful view over Rose Spit, North Beach, and Agate Beach. Here is our intrepid adventure team The walk through the forest is on a raised platform so visitors don’t disturb the forest floor.  I was very impressed at the posted accessibility information at all […]

Tow Hill has a very interesting origin story, which I read on the plaques in the park, but I found this really cool animation of it as well.  Here is the story of this unique place on Haida Gwaii. Despite arriving in gale force winds, the blow holes were not blowing when we visited, but […]

The weather changed dramatically as we drove North.  I was driving and the wind was moving the car!  We looked up the weather before we lost internet and read that gale force winds were coming.  This was accurate. We arrived at Agate Beach, on the north coast to wild wind and waves. It wasn’t raining […]

On Saturday mornings there is a great little farmers market in Charlotte.  We got coffees, rye sourdough, chocolate zucchini cake, mini pizzas and more.  They farmers are really chatty and welcoming and the community is very tight-knit.   The best part of the market was Yoshi, a Japanese Shiatsu practitioner who gave both Tyra and […]

Edge of the World Music Festival in Tlell was one of the best music festivals I have ever been to.  The whole community came out, from toddlers to elders (see the elder parking photo below). It was so family friendly, the perfect size, with good food and a great vibe. We had a great afternoon […]

Beautiful afternoon at glorious Misty Meadows beach in Tlell.  Swimming in warm clear water, surrounded by big clear moon jellyfish and the closest of friends with soft sand underfoot. Paradise, I tell you.  

We arrived to a very, very busy Skidegate and Queen Charlotte City due to the music festival this weekend.  We drove to Hyden Turner Campground in Charlotte and found it very full, with people even sharing campsites.  It is very obviously music festival weekend and it’s buzzing with people as well as wildlife.  We solved […]

The 2nd early morning in a row to catch a ferry.  This time, we comically repacked our car with our stuff and J & T’s.  Our car seems a bit like a clown car, and even BC Ferries employees seemed surprised that we had 4 adults in the car with all our stuff.  But we […]

We were welcomed into Prince Rupert by this beautiful couple. Our dear friends Jordan and Tyra will be our travel companions to Haida Gwaii for the next 11 days and we are so lucky to be with them.  They’ve been living up in Terrace since April and we have really felt their absence in Vancouver. […]

We took an 18 hour ferry between Port Hardy and Prince Rupert up the inside passage on the west coast of BC.  I have to say, it was emotional for me.  For the last 3 years I have spent all my energy working to protect our coast from the threat of oil spills due to the […]

Today in Courtenay we met up with friend and former-coworker Dave, Dogwood North Island organizer extraordinaire. Leaving Dogwood to pursue my travel dreams was a difficult choice to make, because every single person I worked with is a cherished friend as well as brilliant, kick-ass co-worker. People like Dave give me hope for the future […]

Cam and Leslie and their darling babes were the first stop on Vancouver island. We spent the night being delighted by the kids, serenading us on the ukelele and piano and a backyard bonfire. They are so big now. It was great to spend some time with them. Being with Leslie was like a balm […]

We were lucky to start off our adventure in Coast Salish Territories of the Squamish nation, at Evan’s Lake where we witnessed the beautiful union of Lisa and Anton. It was one of the most creative and inspiring weddings I have ever attended (and one of the longest nights of dancing!) The photos speak for […]